Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Ireland's Version of the Bear Tooth Pass

After several days in the cities, we have now taken to the hills and what a surprise it has been. We left Cork and meandered our way down to Kinsale. The roads leading into town reminded us of the coastal roads of Maine. We didn't really get the same overwhelming sense of the ocean, but you certainly could appreciate its presence. Unfortunately, the rains came in a little heavier today, but the locals are graciously optimistic about the clouds breaking. One woman said that all the farmers were praying for rain, and now we have it. The early part of the month had been uncharacteristically dry. As she said, "Can you imagine 3 weeks in Ireland without rain?"

We popped in and out of a few shops before hitting the "highway to heaven". Thankfully, heaven will have to wait yet another day for us. We made it to Skibbereen and visited with a cousin of a family from Newport. He was a pleasant chap who filled us in on some of the local history, including information about the great potato famine of 1845-1850. I marveled at the very courage the Irish possess to endure that and move on; it must have been devastating to face such hardship. I can only imagine what Grammy McNeil and her family encountered, and now I can better appreciate the magnitude of the challenges they faced. We sure do come from a heritage of hearty people and survivors.

Bantry was to be the next stop on our drive along the coast. We actually had dinner in a quaint seaside pub, and no live fiddling music yet I'm afraid. However, since the day still had some usable light, we decided to push on toward Killarney, realizing that we wouldn't go all the way today. We waved to Maureen O'Hara as we passed through Glengariff. The little we saw from the main road was much like Camden Maine or Rockport. Maureen O'Hara, now wouldn't that have been lovely to see her?

The road from Glengariff to Kenmare brings you across the county line of Cork into Kerry. Unfortunately, the fog lessened the spectacular views of the valley below and the scenic vistas surrounding us, but it had every bit the feel of driving into Yellowstone through the Bear Tooth. It was breathtaking and hair raising all in one. We passed Molly Galivan's...the first Molly sign for me in Ireland, and I couldn't help but think of my Molly.

We found 4 star accommodations in Kenmare, not that we were planning on that, but Mary O'Brien's was not to be found. The others were "not trading" tonight, as one gentleman said. After a bit of unpacking and a stroll to town, we had a delightful fill of dessert, bread pudding for me, at Foley's pub.

The drive and sites today were simply marvelous. We were in no hurry, because it's just too dangerous to drive on these roads quickly. As for me, I'm just trying to take it all in as I look around. Thankfully, I have 2 things, additional batteries for my camera so I can take all the pictures I want and a very competent driver behind the wheel. Funny thing, that was the same formula I had when we went through the Bear Tooth in 1967. The only difference I'd say is this one had a slightly greater touch of green!

2 comments:

  1. We ate at the Snug (in Bantry) in 2002 as did Betsy et al.- quaint! when we were there in Aug 2002, there was a golf tournament in Glengariff honoring Maureen O'Hara (Mary Kate Danagher herself). I missed it by one day - the woman at the gift shop said I could have played if there! It is a beautiful ride around those parts - the road over to Killarney from Kenmare is very pretty. I hope you are able to see some of it. Jean

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  2. Arrival time? Am I picking you up? Call when you are back in US. T

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